Manufacture

Before I began the manufacturing process I had to convert my Pro/ENGINEER files into
Stereolithography (STL) files. This enables the 3D router to read the files through GeoCam
software. I added a special flange to the back half of my model (left). This was to allow
the 6mm ballnose cutter to get right down the side of my model to create a rounded edge.

I also created STL files for the two pieces I wanted making on the 3D printer. I want the grille
on the left to be sanded and painted and the trim on the right can be used as a pattern to make
a silicone mould. I can then cast the trim to look like rubberised 'glowing' neon.

The process begins!!
I chose to use Jelutong as my research showed wood creates a better sound.

DISASTER STRIKES!! I realised I had used the wrong STL file to cut the top of the front half
of my model (left). To compensate I lowered the cutting height by 5mm and set the machine
going again. What I didn't realise was that this would then cut the entire top of my model off!
I had no choice but to make that piece again. DISASTER STRIKES TWICE!!! The back
half of my model (right) flew out of the clamps half-way through. We ran the program again
but had to estimate where the cutter would begin. This resulted in the dome shape being cut
too deep and a ridge effect occurred. this should have been smooth! Because of the time issues
using the machines I made the decision to try and make good the back half of the model 
whilst I re-cut the front half again.

 Success second time around!

On the left you can clearly see just how much filling and sanding I had to do to make a
smooth dome shape. I also drilled a hole and fitted the thread to screw the switch fitting into.
The inside cut wasn't too bad and just needed sanding.

The next stage was to drill sufficient holes for all the internal wires. On th right picture a small
hole is just visible. This will be where the switch wires are threaded through before soldering.

Everything is soldered together here and the speaker glued in place. I am annoyed that I
didn't think about the excess wires and so now there is nowhere to put them! It's making
it difficult to fit the circuit board into its slot...

Here's the finished article - on the right the neon switch can be seen in action.

 These close-up pictures show the lack of silicone trim. Due to issues with the 3D printer not
working I wasn't able to get my pattern made in time to silicone cast the trim. I opted to make
it out of blue acrylic instead. It gives a similar impression of a neon glow but sadly isn't rounded
as I initially intended. The grille however came out fine on the 3D printer and just required
sanding back and painting up white.

 Finished!